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About puntoMX

  • Birthday 09/30/1974

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    All except computers ;).
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    Windows 7 Home Premium x64

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  1. They do have that . But what they don't have is undervolted protection, and as it's an active switching PSU it did smoke while struggling for power, that's all I wanted to say. I don't give much about ripple or noise in my PSU and have now a non 80 Plus PSU that does 80+ any way but in a shorter range, say from 150 to 300W load, it has mostly the same components used as my old 80+ one. It also doesn't turn on when voltage is under 85. Yup, an UPS would have saved it most likely, but doesn't that eat 5% of your efficiency too? You know, across the loo there is a country where they do have subterranean cabling. And yeah, keep making fun of my NON 80+ PSU, hehehe By the way, all the crap PSU I use for my internetcafé part are still continuing to work after almost 2 years of 6 to 8 hours a day usage and are always on S3 mode (sleep mode) when not in use. And guess what, they cost only 10USD wholesale. Efficiency is bad, that is true, some 65%, but these computers pull not more than 80W max. (avg, some 65W) from the outlet so even a 80+ would be struggling to do better at that poweroutput.
  2. This doesn't work always by the way. Let me tell you a story about a coolermaster 80 plus PSU... Once, far far away... in a land called Mexico, a Dutch guy bought a modular 600W coolermaster PSU. The Dutch guy installed it and it worked great, but, as always, great things do end too! One day he came into his office and smelled a burning stink, not knowing where it came from. he knew that there was a brownout (no, he wasn't smelling the brown... *snap*) and so, something got damaged. He turned on his PC and all looked fine. 3 Weeks later he turned on his PC as well and smoke and fire came out of his PC. Now, it seems that the active voltage regulator circuit that accept voltages between 85 and 240 o so was trying to start the computer any way, but with only 70V coming in and the current (amperes) were getting to high, the whole thing smoked for some time and popped 3 weeks later. The Dutch guy learned from this that it's not always better to have a 80 Plus PSU; If your incoming powerlines have dirty or low voltage from time to time you are better off buying a NOT 80 Plus PSU. Yup, I trashed the junk, 100USD down the drain.
  3. I see, I believe you have speakers that got 5 or 12 volt from the PC before, some "brandname" PC used those and the were mostly attached to the screen itself. Or, the old computer had a build in amplifier. A good set of stereospeakers would be between 50 and 100USD. Speakers are personal, so I would listen to a good set a local shop if possible. Note that they need to have a build-in amplifier as your new computer will only put out a few mili-watts. If you are not sure what to pick you can always ask us again .
  4. Did you test those same speakers with a MP3 player or walkman or so? If headphones work, the speakers should work too, so I think it's your speakers and not the soundcard or onboard sound connections. Test that first. Now, about the new set of speakers; what setup do you want (eg. 2.1, 5.1 or stereo) and how much do you like to spend on those including shipping?
  5. Thank you Tarun! Love ya man! ;)
  6. That's more CPU power load, idle my system shows 2 green and under load it goes up to 2 green and 2 orange, even occasionally 2 green, 2 orange and 1 red. I never get the whole 6 to light up other than on boot for one second.
  7. As sure as it can be, like James already pointed out, that PSU has plenty of power unless you go with double or triple video cards . Just be careful with the voltages you put on the components, don't go much higher than 1.4v on the CPU. Gigabyte recovers nicely from bad BIOS setting so not much can go wrong, just take it step by step. Now! Tweak that baby .* * Always on your own risk, we at Lunarsoft don't want to be hold responsible.
  8. With a better cooler it can hit 4 GHz without problems, just give it more voltage . But, A E5200 CPU works great at 3GHz without setting voltages higher. The "Auto" settings on the motherboard are working as they should unlike older motherboard where "Auto" were more "Default" settings. Good you like the setup . @ James_A, Just pick any brand these days and you will find that there are just a few brands of chips, but they do pick them by timings and speed at for example Mushkin. I would just keep it normal and look for a nice deal, anything that doesn't need over 2.1volts and doesn't have higher timings than 5-5-5-15 would be recommended. Also, go for 4GB, when you have a 32Bit OS So you would not fill all your banks with 2 of 1GB and 2 of 512MB. Remember that a 32bit OS can't address the full 4GB although Vista will show in system specs that the board has 4GB available.
  9. Call ACER for a replacement as the use the same PSUs for more models. There are universal ones sold for about 25 Pounds. Also I found this as an option, PSA Power 90W AC Adpater. Just check if it's the same connector, the older laptops use in general 90W PSUs and deliver 18-20 volts.
  10. The HD4830 will pull that game on max. without AA, you could consider it's bigger brother; the HD 4850 with 512MB. If possible, use Vista 64bits so you can get the best out of your hardware .
  11. Tarun forgot to say that he has a gateway computer with a BTX board as well, and a not to easy on the components 915 Intel chipset. Also I had to make sure that the video card wasn't too long and that the 12cm fan from the PSU pointed down. He got some nice deals on those parts and it was the best he could do with that machine. Now, we are talking about a video card, but for what purpose are you going to use one? What screen will be hooked up?
  12. Well, the reason why I picked the PATA drive; the board still has one PATA port plus you would free up a SATA port for future use. nVidia is just pushing to hard with their products to keep up with ATI, not only with their motherboard chipsets but also with their video cards, a good example is their renaming stratigy of older products. Sure they go to a lower production process (eg. from 65 to 55m) but that's still no reason in my eyes to rename a hip completely. Don't get me wrong, they made perfect chipsets over the years and their first nForce and TNT chipset are still in my mind and I loved the 6100/410 and nForce3 chipset for the AMD Sempron 754 and nForce4 for the 939 CPUs, sure for overclocking . The 8600 and 9600 were right priced some time ago but AMD slapped them hard.
  13. Welcome Ophan to the forum, Let's redo that list completely shall we? This is going to sound a bit negative but I will give you a better advice on what is Hot and what is Not; you got it, your system is "Not" so here's why: For an INTEL based system use an INTEL chipset, there were rumors that nVidia was going to leave the chipset market for other CPU makers, like VIA did some time ago, so for that reason I would stay away from nVidia. Also nVidia fights against ATI and they hardly can keep up, it's like Intel staying ahead of AMD as well. The case looks good but I can tell you that it's flimsy with an ugly (but that is personal) design and a useless display in front; it also includes a PSU that isn't up to the standards of a modern PSU so please go for a something else. You don't want you screen going black after half a year or even less. It could be even worse; the PSU taking out your hard disk, motherboard and some other components as well. The Video Card isn't the best buy either, go with a ATI HD4670 or HD4850, those beat and slap around the nVidia card by price AND performance. Check out the benchmarks on the net. LG isn't making quality optical drives these days, and I must say that back in 1999 they were the best but these days you are better off buying a Samsung. Seagate has messed up big time with their firmware leaving tons of people with lost data and a "seabrick" that is useless until you flash it or send it back to Seagate for replacement; again, Google will show you a lot of info on this . Now, the good part; Let's start to get the parts together for a serious system: GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16813128359 120 USD SAPPHIRE 100265HDMI Radeon HD 4830 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814102822 100 USD Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822136218 70 USD Antec NSK6580B Black 0.8mm cold-rolled steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 430 Watts 80 PLUS Power Supply - Retail http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16811129045 100 USD Intel Pentium E5200 Wolfdale 2.5GHz 2MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor - Retail http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16819116072 73 USD SAMSUNG Black 22X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache IDE 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe - OEM http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16827151176 24 USD G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820231166 53 USD 540 USD in total. I'll be back soon to finish my story .
  14. More a coil resonating, But I see MikeOMG didn´t reply on your posts so I could be late...
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